Day 278- Cairns to Mission Beach, Australia

MOUNT HYPIPAMEE NATIONAL PARK AND MISSION BEACH (06/10/09)

Right at the south of the Atherton Tablelands and on our route back south lies Mount Hypipamee National Park. Mount Hypipamee itself is a pea-green volcanic crater lake at the bottom of a deep chasm. The lake is very deep, so deep in fact that no one actually knows where the bottom is.

Notable other features of the National Park are it's usually spectacular waterfalls. In the worst drought for 100 years these have dried to a trickle.

Still further south is Mission Beach, our stopping off point for the night. The palm fringed white sand stretches for miles in both directions making it relatively easy to find a bit of peace and quiet.

Right the way along the beach are hundreds of Coconut Palms which inevitably produce hundreds of coconuts.

The coconuts start off surrounded by a large almond shaped husk roughly twice the size of the actual coconut.

It's all about having the right tools! A sharp knife is needed to remove the tough, fibrous outer layer.

Half of the husk removed and you can see the familiar shape of the coconut.

All off, and to think that you have to pay $3 for one of these at the supermarket just round the corner.

Unfortunately Adam's juggling skills still haven't progressed past one object.

The trick of cracking a coconut- don't hit the coconut, instead hold it in your hand and bash it down onto a strong knife, screwdriver or, in this case, tent peg.

Coconut milk, yum!

Success.

Food always tastes better when you've had to work for it.

Day 277- Cairns Area, Australia

GRANITE GORGE AND GIANT FIG TREES (05/10/09)

Fairly close to Cairns but inland is a small area known as Granite Gorge. Being closer to the desert combined with a drought for the whole area meant that there was very little water in the streams and pools.

Endangered Rock Wallabies live on and around the rocks and the shrewd owners of the land have been selling wallaby food for many years. As a result the wild wallabies have lost their fear of humans and eagerly hop over when they hear the rustle of a small paper bag.

These curious and charismatic animals are very endearing.

Adam joined in too although he left most of the feeding to the over excited Liz.

The Wallabies have seemingly insatiable appetites and their paws have a tight grip to ensure that they get every last scrap.

This one decided to investigate Liz's sunhat and water bottle.

This baby was very shy.

It seems that shyness is easily got over- these older Wallabies were fighting over access to Liz.

Liz, more than happy to be squabbled over by such adorable creatures.

It's not called Granite Gorge for nothing- there really is a lot of granite.

A bit further south, in the heart of the Atherton Tablelands region, grow some of the largest fig trees in existence. The Strangler Fig does not initially grow it's own trunk but climbs the trunk of another tree, finally killing it by starving it of light, water and nutrients. By the time the host tree is dead the fig is probably large enough to support itself. In the case of what has been named the Curtain Fig one host tree has collapsed into another creating this unusual shape.

The incredibly complex mass of roots the fig has gradually sent to the ground over many years.

Another immense Strangler Fig- The Cathedral Fig.

An indication of the immensity of these trees. Here we are inside the Cathedral Fig with not even the lowest branches showing.

Back in Cairns a fiercely burning full Moon silhouetted the palm trees against the night sky.

Day 276 - Around Cairns, Australia

MOSSMAN GORGE AND BARRON FALLS (04/10/09)

Mossman Gorge is a stretch of river where the water is bright green and the water spectacularly crashes through a narrow gorge. Unfortunately due to the severe drought there was no rushing water and a dangerously decayed bridge meant that we couldn't access the main section of the gorge. Oh well, you can't win them all... we (Adam) satisfied ourselves by clambering about on the rounded boulders.

A Bush Turkey. These curious but immensely stupid birds are delightful, and very amusing, to watch for a while.

Back down the Captain Cook Highway from Port Douglas we once again set up camp on the outskirts of Cairns. From there we headed over to Barron Falls - spectacular and huge.

On the roadside Adam spotted these termite nests- spectacular and huge.

Day 275 - Daintree NP, Australia

DAINTREE NATIONAL PARK (03/10/09)

From Port Douglas we drove north into the Daintree National Park where we took a boat up the Daintree River and through the mangrove swamps. One of Adam's ambitions for the year was finally realised- to find and photograph a wild snake. This has now been upgraded to finding and photographing a wild venomous snake- this tree python is a harmless constrictor. Nevertheless Adam was as happy as a pig in a shed.

As if one snake was not enough five minutes later we spotted another, larger tree python. It was so long that it didn't all fit in the picture.

Adam would probably have remained happy for the next week with just the snakes but shortly afterwards his day was really made when we spotted this enormous male Saltwater Crocodile.

He was HUGE. Saltwater Crocodiles are the largest and most aggressive Crocoldilian species and adult males can grow up to 7 metres (about 21ft). This one was about 6 metres (18ft) and probably weighs just over a ton. It is really not a good idea to swim in the rivers in this area.

Disturbed from his rest by the noisy boat he set off lazily across the river to find a quieter spot with no teasingly out of reach lunch items gawking at him.



Up past the river lies the Daintree rainforest, one of the largest untouched areas of forest still remaining in Australia. Access is strictly limited but the short network of well-trodden tracks were perfect for getting a feel for the dense tropical jungle.

Amazingly the wildlife just seemed to be desperate to find us for once. This Cassowary actually crossed the path right in front of us, just a couple of steps away. These large, flightless birds are an endangered species and we were very lucky to see one in the wild.

Delighted with our luck we followed the poor bird around for over an hour. It didn't seem too bothered by our prescence, they are over 5ft tall and it was probably fully aware that a kick from those powerful clawed feet could easily deal with us, probably permanently.

In the forest these huge Fan Palms grow all around like... well, fans really.

The Daintree is also home to some beautiful rainforest fringed stretches of beach although swimming is not advisable due to the possibility of crocodiles.

Once again those witty Aussie road sign defacers had been at work. What had once been a speed hump warning had become an even clearer message of what might become of the endangered Cassowary if drivers did not start paying better attention.

Day 274 - Port Douglas, Australia

PORT DOUGLAS (02/10/09)

Endless fields of sugar cane lined the sides of the road as we drove north from Cairns to the town of Port Douglas.

In Port Douglas ('Dougie' to the residents in typical Aussie style) we spent the afternoon in the warm tropical sea (without cameras) before spending the night in a pleasant, palm covered camp site.

Days 271-273 - Cairns, Australia

CAIRNS (29/09/09 - 01/10/09)

The far north, tropical city of Cairns is best known as being the place where the Great Barrier Reef is at it's most accessible. We were no different from any of the other millions of tourists who come here every year, we got ourselves on a boat heading out to the reef on a snorkeling tour. We had to get up early to catch the boat but Liz still had time, despite the tropical heat, for a Latte in her sunhat.

Our cheap underwater camera really does not do the reef any justice although it is doubtful whether any camera truly could. We have included some of the pictures just to give a rough idea. Here is Adam with his flipper right next to a Giant Clam.

The sheer number and variety of fish on the reef is absolutely astounding. This shoal of small blue fish were darting all around us.

As well as millions of brightly coloured fish there is also the massive diversity of coral species to look at. At all times in the water you really don't know what to look at.

A school of small striped fish.

Large, azure blue Parrot Fish are a common sight. They use their parrot like beaks to bite off, and eat, small chunks of the coral.

Some more of these striking (species unknown, sorry!) striped fish.

Another Parrot Fish.

Liz has some reservations about swimming but enjoyed every second of our Reef trip.

Liz, back on board the boat, spotted Adam in the distance, probably chasing after some poor creature which just wanted to eat the coral in peace.

Uncle Adam! Back on board the boat we received a text with some happy news- at 2pm on October 1st his first nephew was born. Congratulations Olie and Mel!

A celebratory drink was in order so we headed into town where we stopped for a while to look at the city light reflected in the bay.